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| Removing the rear wheels on a 1950 John Deere Model B at Rusty Bucks Ranch LLC |
| This is the Step by Step process of removing the rear wheels from a 1950 John Deere Model B. Many other two-cylinder Deere's will follow this same basic procedure. This is a tips guide to the process of rear wheel removal and is not meant to be a replacement for the proper service manual instructions. Please refer to your service manual for additional details and work safely! This is the proper procedure for installing a new muffler if your hood hasn't been cut. Have a cut hood? See how to fix that... HERE OK, depending on what daily duties your tractor was used for... It's possible that the rear wheels haven't been slid on the axles for 50 plus years. They are stubborn even in an ideal situation. Here's how to make it just a bit easier... |
| START NOW by spraying your axles, bolts, hub lock , and everything that will need to move with some type of penetrating fluid. We prefer to use Kroil but any product will use. Be generous with it and spray it every time you walk by the tractor for at least 3 or 4 days before you are ready to begin the wheel removal. You will thank yourself for doing this later! |
| That bolt will now be located over the square head bolt to drive the lock hub off as you turn the retaining bolts in. Alternate back and forth, pulling the lock hub off without binding |
| Once those bolts are removed they need to be inserted into the opposing holes on the hub. Those holes are threaded to accept the bolt BUT spray with penetrating oil and take the time to spray and wire brush the rust off your bolts. Ideally, you want to be able to thread these bolts into the pulling holes by hand so you are getting maximum pulling force on the hub and noit wasting your energy just turning the bolt through the threads. |
| Now the easy part is done! The lock hub is removed and you can begin on pulling the actual wheel off the axle. Again, SPRAY with penetrating fluid and clean as much dirt and grease from the axles as you can now. Spray it several times from front and rear and give it some soak in time. |
| We keep our price structure simple, labor plus parts & material. In most cases we will not bid a job, however, we will offer the best estimate we can but it will only be an estimate. When you give a firm bid for doing any type of repair or service on this type of equipment, you must have a built in cushion to cover any unexpected problems that might arise. If no problems arise, the bidder comes out ahead and the customer loses, however, if major problems arise the bidder loses. Our policy is made to be fair for both parties concerned. After a project has been started and if any unexpected major problems should arise, the customer is always notified before work continues. We do our best to keep our customers informed. When we go to settle an account, we do not like unexpected surprises just as much as the customer. We can/will stop the restoration process at any time per the customers request. Should unexpected hardships occur, you are not locked in to finish to completion any project that is underway. We recognize that daily life brings unexpected obstacles along the way. We can delay or stop our services at your request should you find yourself in a difficult spot. |
| About our Restoration Pricing and Quotes policy |

| Here's the lock hub removed. You can now pull the retaining bolts back out and get it ready for clean up and or soda blasting. |
| The yellow paint goes on to complete. |
| Have a cut hood? See how to fix that... HERE |
| Replacing a muffler? See how to fix that... HERE |
| Removing the rear wheels? See how to fix that... HERE |





| Step one is to get those three bolts broke loose and taken out. It's going to take some brute force to get them broken loose so get a breaker bar and a length of pipe if you need it for additional leverage. We keep a 6 foot chain link fence corner post in the shop for the extra pulling power. |




| Here we have our in-shop made wheel puller set up ready to begin pulling the wheel. |
| Another shot of the wheel puller set up ready to begin pulling the wheel. |
| Once the threaded rod is through the hub, back it up with some nuts on the inside also. This will put less strain on the actual threads in the hub and reduce chance of tearing up your threads. |
| I use a large socket that the hub will slide over to get maximum pull on the wheel. If you run out of room before the wheel comes off teh axle, just back up your puller and install a longer socket or a 2nd socket to give you some more room to continue pulling. |
| Be ready for a work-out. The hub will be tight and require maximum effort all the way out to the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch. When you finally get it out to the point where it is hanging on the axle loosely... GET A FRIEND. You will NOT be able to wrestle this beast by yourself. It is HEAVY |
| Repairing a leaky radiator? See how to fix that... HERE |
| Before and After with the Soda Blaster |

| Wheels are then primed for paint. |





| Rear wheels - Ready for tires. |
| Front wheels - Ready for tires. |


| A complete set of new tires arrive. |

| Tires are mounted and waiting for re-installation back onto the tractor. |





| This concludes the rear wheel removal and restoration project. Re-assemble wheels onto tractor and set rear wheels to desired width on the axles. Good luck on your project! |